Projects / Yard

Spring Garden Projects

Need some inspiration of projects for your garden…or something to give your honey to do?  LOL  here you go:

Pillar perfection

Eight, 10- and 18-inch-diameter PVC pipes cut to varying heights serve as the basis for these mosaic pillars. Overturned terra-cotta saucers turn two of the pipes into pedestals; the third cradles a flowerpot.

Easy Homestead: Water Garden add a few minnows to keep mosquitoes at bay.


Easy Homestead: Water Garden add a few minnows to keep mosquitoes at bay.

Easy DIY Pathways with Glow in the Dark Rocks

DIY glowing pathwayIf you are one of those people who like to be different, we have a great idea for you. Instead of spending hundreds on solar lights for your pathway or garden area, consider glow in the dark rocks. No, these are not something that you will find at your local home improvement store. They are something that you can make which makes them the perfect project because not only do you get a beautiful and unique pathway, you get it cheap.  You can use any type of rocks that you want for this project so if you happen to live in an area that has lots of river rocks then this will really be a breeze.


  • Rust-Oleum Glow in the Dark Paint. This is a brush on paint and you will need about a seven ounce can. If you are planning to do a relatively large area, you may want to consider picking up two cans.
  • Rocks


Spread newspaperClean the rocks with a stiff brush,  Brush a light coat of paint onto the surface of all of your rocks.Add a second coat to ensure that you get the surface of the rocks covered well.Optional: Add a light coating of epoxy or another clear coat if you want to ensure that the paint lasts through different weather conditions.Lay your rocks.  They will charge up during the daytime from the sun’s UV rays.During the night, you will have a lovely glow on your walkway.

You can add other elements if you want to make it truly unique, but this inexpensive and easy idea is really all you need to create a lovely walkway or garden area.


Pots with a Personal Touch: Hypertufa


Makes this

Use Gloves as a mold to make this

Hypertufa is a man-made substitute for Tufa rock.It can be used for tubs, pots, troughs, steps, benches, sculptures, seats, stepping stones and bird baths. When properly surface treated it gives the appearance of great age and ruggedness. No special tools are required and if you are prepared to give it a go yourself they are inexpensive and entirely original.

Materials and Tool list:

  1.  For a square or oblong tub you will need two cartons, one of them with smaller overall dimensions by at least 5 or 6 cm. Place the smaller carton inside the larger. There should be a gap of 5 or 6 cm between the walls on all sides. These cartons are your moulds. For round containers try different size plastic bags, old plastic basins, or buckets.
  2.  Concrete blocks, bricks or short lengths of heavy timber to fit flush against the outsides of the outer carton for support. This stops the sides bowing out under the weight of the material. For the inside of the container use any spare sand, soil, potting mix (anything bulky) to stop the inside carton caving in. Fill up the inside carton progressively as the walls are built up. If you are using plastic bags for moulds, place 4cm wide adhesive packaging tape around the outside to prevent bowing.
  3. Pieces of broom handle, branch or 25mm plastic pipe about 5cm long are used for drainage holes. These can be carefully removed later on. One or two holes are sufficient for small pots, but for larger tubs and troughs at least 4 drainage holes are needed.
  4. The ingredients in proportion by volume – 2 parts peat, 1 part  sand (not beach sand because of salt and it is too fine 1 part cement.
  5. Tools – Plastic Sheet 1.5 x 1.5 metres, Wheelbarrow (optional), Trowel or spade, Rubber gloves, Tamping stick, 50 x 50mm about .5 metre long, Wire brush, Old hearth brush, Water container or hose.

INSTRUCTIONS Lay the piece of plastic sheet on the garage floor. Place the large carton in the middle of it. Place the concrete blocks against the outside of carton. Mix the ingredients in the wheelbarrow or on the floor. Quantity depends on the size of the envisaged container (use your judgement). After mixing the dry ingredients thoroughly add sufficient water to make a sticky stiff mix – not runny but about mud-pie consistency, if you can remember back that far. Now stand the drainage plugs upright on the bottom of the carton and place a layer of the mix on the base and tamp it down giving special attention to the corners and around the drainage plugs. Aim for a thickness of 5cm for small to medium size tubs. Take your smaller carton and place it on the layer of mix in the bottom of the larger carton. Make sure it is equally spaced on all sides. Then one quarter fill it with sand or whatever you have. This will stop the inside bowing in and the carton floating up. Now fill up the wall space between the cartons. Use the tamping stick to work it into the corners as you go to get the air bubbles out. Make sure you tamp the outside walls well. Keep building up the sides with mix, adding sand to the inside carton for support until you have reached the desired height. Leave it and don’t come back for at least 24 hours. Finishing: Next morning dash out and have a look at your handiwork. Yuck! Wet cartons. But that’s just what you want. First, scoop out the sand from the inside carton. Then CAREFULLY peel off the inside wet cardboard and discard. Now the outside. Remove the concrete blocks and carefully finish peeling away the outside carton but don’t worry about the bottom. DON’T TRY TO MOVE OR TIP THE CONTAINER AT THIS STAGE – YOU WILL LOSE THE LOT ! Now the tricky bit. You will notice that the walls are rather smooth, in fact just like dark wet boxed concrete. This is not on. We want the walls to look aged and weather worn. This is what we do. Using a wire brush or a special scraper (see below) we very carefully roughen the sides, top and inside rim. I prefer to round off the corners and edges as well. Don’t worry about a few nicks and scratches and small holes. These help to give it a natural look. You may wish to carefully scratch in your own design or special texture. Having shaped the outside to your requirements, gently give it a good brush with a hearth brush. The container should be left for at least a week to allow it to cure and set hard. Give it a light sprinkling with water initially 3 hours after moulding and therafter every couple of days to assist the curing process. It is most unwise to lift it until it’s entirely set, but if you have to shift it only do so by sliding or dragging it across the floor by means of the plastic sheeting. The mix left over can be used for stands for the containers. Either press it into pottles or plant pots or roll it into flattened balls. Using builders’ adhesive these can be attached to the container base as feet at a later stage

FLOWER TOWER as shown in the Home Depot Commercials


If you try any of these projects share photos!



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